Il tempo bruto

The weather has turned out to be a real mixed bag. I'm writing this as gale force winds rattle our apartment. We've prepared for a potential power cut, 'cause if it goes dark around here it gets really dark and the only company you'll have are the wild boar - and they don't usually carry matches (mental note: try not to think about how remote this place is and pyromanical wild boar). I've not seen any yet but heard snorting noises coming from the surrounding woods of a night.

Have spent the last few days exploring San Giminano and Volterra and having a fantastic time. Both towns are perched on the top of hills, although Volterra wins hands-down in this respect. The drive up is a test of nerve especially if you're not used to driving on the wrong side of the road and negotiating multiple switch-backs. If one wanted to describe a typical Italian town both San Gim and Volterra would do: tall buildings, narrow alleys (and yes the locals drive down them. I have the photos), small shops and resturants tucked away and more history than is legal.

Talking of history we went back to Volterra today to visit the two museums we missed. Had lunch at Volterra today and tried a Medieviale Menu. We've been to Italy many times but I still find navigating Italian menus a trying time. The food however is always fantastic, even if todays was a little odd.

Have officially declared getting a 3G connection as 'magic'. It positive it can't be the Mac as I can get a connection - it just takes a random number of (usually > 4) connection attempts before it will work. Once connected the only thing that seems to work reliably is publishing this blog! Tried getting the weather this evening for Florence and it took around half hour to get any pages downloaded. To add insult to injure, my email at home has gone down, probably due to our Virgin connection dropping out for no apparent reason (have I mentioned yet I loath Virgin). I think it's killed the OpenVPN connection I maintain from my home server to my internet server.

The one piece of technology not to have let me down so far (apart from TomTom) is my iTouch. One app in particular has been indispensable and that's the Collins English/Italian dictionary. Having an interactive dictionary that also gives you example sentences has saved us many times to date. It will even conjugate the verbs for you. However, it can't help me speaking Italian in a south-london accent, 'dowaa carfay larrtay' - not exactly the film star accent I was looking for.

Busted email

For anyone reading this blog and have sent me email then I won't be able to pick it up. It looks like the VPN connection between my home server and internet server has died and I can only reestablish this from home. Which could be difficult from Italy. For the time being use my alternate email until I can work out what to do. The only viable option is to get my Father-in-law to restart the server by cycling the power (I'm not sure I'm upto explaining how to restart a BSD box). The only problem then is if the entire server doesn't come back up.... not that it'll make a difference to us here. Mmmm... perhaps some wine and sleep on it a little longer?!

Toscana and Deer

Finally, we have an Internet connection; I'm not sure how but the 3G dongle now works. It appears to be something to do with the ppp negotiation but I haven't quite worked out what, although it's definitely something to do with the initial IP negotiation. The modem always connects and establishes a UMTS connection successfully - sometimes we get an IP sometimes not. I've changed the number; the default in the script is *99***1#, but there are 4 other variations so I've changed it to *99# and it appears more reliable but I'm not convinced. I'll just have to learn some patience.

Once working there is something rather satisfying sitting on our patio on the top of a Tuscan hill reading our email. It may be temperamental and slow but it works. You would have thought having used the Internet and technology for the last 20 years I'd take it all for granted, but it still brings a smile to my face. Possibly more out of surprise the damn stuff works in the first place!

We arrived in Tuscany after a short (4 hour) drive from Sutri in mixed weather. So far the weather reports on the news, delivered by what appears to be a Colonel in the Italian air-force, are accurate. Our apartment is well appointed and has fantastic views over Volterra. The weather has since deteriorated and is blustery and raining intermittently, not that we really care. Some R&R is most welcome given the Wifey has gone done with a stinking cold. Somehow, we don't appear to ready to go out until lunch time! After breakfast and talking about the day ahead somehow it's nearly lunchtime and time to consider what to eat for lunch. Talking about food we've tried to eat typically Italian food but the other evening had fish fingers and chips for tea - how terribly British.

Exploring the local area it appears to be (or has been) used for hunting. Found a rickety shack hidden in the undergrowth that was obviously used for shelter and heat. The piles of old shotgun cartridges pretty much sealed our opinion. We've not seen any wild boar yet but have seen deer roaming across fields. On a walk yesterday while walking down an old track I disturbed a deer who ran out no more than 5m in front of me.

We've started to loose track of time and it's only because the laptop is telling me it's Wed that I know what day of the week it is. Fantastic.

A Roma

Word of the day: sorridere (to smile) - taken from some graffiti on the train. We tried to translate the whole phrase but the literal translation didn't work. The other phrase telling Marco to 'vaffanculo' translated perfectly (apologies to any Italian speakers). Teenagers are the same the world over!

Getting up for work at 0630 is painful, more so when you're on holiday but this time it's worth it. This is day 1 of our two day excursion into Rome - the Colosseum. Caught the 8.19 train on a rather misty and dull day. Dulled the views into Rome on a rather long train journey - 1.5 hours! We felt right at home as it felt like our normal commute, but with much better views, as the mist cleared as we got closer to Rome.

Arrived Ostiense and transferred onto the Metro - easy so far. The key to traveling on Italian public transport is to buy your tickets in advance and validate them when you start your journey using the little yellow boxes. Failure to do so will result in a ticket inspector shouting at you (that's what it sounds like) , although pleading 'Mi scusi, Non ho capisco! Sono inglese' and generally looking pathetic has worked for us.

Stepping out of the Metro you walk out into the Colosseum. This is a fantastic piece of architecture and for it to be, mostly, still standing after 1000 years is awe-inspiring. Go there if you get a chance. Similarly, walking around the Palatino and the Fora Romana is impressive. The Fora Romana however looks like a cross between major building works and a massive jigsaw puzzle.

Got back in the evening narrowly missing a head-on collision driving back from Caprinica. BMW overtook on a blind corner and thankfully there was enough room for three plus I was braking hard.

Returned the next day and did a circuit of tourist Rome: Fontana di Trevi, Spanish steps, the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museum, and Ponte di Angels. We were warned that many museums and places to visit are closed at short notice or changed around. Funnily enough the Spanish steps were closed - well most of them. Walked down via XX passed the designer shops. Had to photograph wifey outside Jimmy Choo's - much to the amusement of the sales staff inside. Walked beside the river, across the Ponte di Angels (showing the passions of Christ), finally walking around into Vatican city. Wandered around to the entrance to the Vatican Museum and entry to the Sistine Chapel expecting many queues. Luckily for us at this time of year it's fairly quiet and we pretty much walked straight in.

I won't labour the point but the works of art, particular the ceilings, are spectacular. To fully appreciate them you have to see them. I took many photographs but none will really do them justice. I'm not a religious man, but seeing all this spectacular wealth and opulence in a place of God seemed.... wrong.

Tomorrow we leave for Tuscany. I hope the weather stays with us but the forecast isn't good.

  

Sutri - Culture shock

After the chaos of yesterday we planned to have a quiet day. Some gentle exploring of the town as well as restocking our provisions. Today's breakfast wasn't as exciting as previous mornings, some cereal and bread and butter (we forgot to bring Jam, so we'll have to buy some).

Ventured out to first find il Supermercato and try the cash point again. We tried it last night but said something about a comms error (...never a good sign on a cash point, but this is Italy). Quickly found a large supermarket and bought food: pasta, pesto, salad, jam,and chocolate filled croissants (...mmm... must remember to refer to mental notes from time to time).

By the time we got back to the flat the temperature must have been in the mid-20s and this is only April. Decided that instead of doing the usual mad-English thing and wandering around in the midday sun, we'd find the local train station. As we plan to go to Rome on Thursday and Friday. Broke out the trusty TomTom which pointed us 5km up the road to Caprinica. After some rather vicious switch-backs we found our way to the station. Thankfully the timetables agreed with the times we'd looked up on the Internet, so it looks like an early start on the 0816 from Caprinica-Sutri to Roma Ostinse.

The wifey talked to the ticket man to ensure the parking was free and the cost of the tickets; €7 each. I'd say that was a bargain and that includes unlimited use of trains, buses and metro. London by comparison is so expensive! We also noticed the ticket man does the signals - he has an old style panel of large switches which he uses to control the trains. Lets hope he doesn't get it wrong tomorrow.

Came back to Sutri and drank coffee in the main piazza learning a new word in the process, 'fuori' which means 'outside'. Yes please, don't mind if I do.

Attempted to get online this evening and failed, 'Unable to negotiate PPP connection'. 3G dongles whilst being very clever bits of kit are basically very fast modems. This, based on past experience, means they'll never work as you'd expect. It worked in Milan so you'd assume it would work just outside Rome, but obviously not. The damn thing connects, lots of AT commands are issued and the other end just gives up. I'll try again in Tuscany.

Italy

Today was brought to you by the letter L (for lunatic), Wild thing (The Trogs), Newton Faulkner, Haribo and the letter V (for valium).

Woke up to a glorious clear day. Left at 0940 after another sumptuous breakfast of coffee and chocolate filled croissant (note to self: must vary diet and remember 5-a-day doesn't usually mean 5 chocolate filled croissant). Joined the madness that is the Tangenziale to join the A1/E35 south. Thought it would get quieter but basically it was full on chaos pretty much all the way. The Tuscan hills made for some fantastic views, snatched while trying to avoid the other cars.

On the way I tried to figure out how to drive Italian style. I finally settled on these basic rules:

1. Speed limits are minimums not maximums
2. Leave at most a fag-papers width between you and the car in front
3. Brake if and only if there is no room to go around. See rule 10.
4. White lines are for following not driving between
5. To overtake apply rules 2,3 and 4 until nerve of driver in front finally gives (or they finish their call on the mobile) and pull over, usually just missing the wing of the car on the inside lane
6. Anticipation is what you experience watching football - it doesn't apply to driving
7. There are only two speeds to drive at: fast or stop. See rule 1
8. Parking. Yes - anywhere
9. Mirrors are for seeing how great you look
10. Real men don't brake. See rule 3.
11. 
    

Arrived Sutri about 1700 not realising that the roads in this small town were built by the Romans many hundreds of years ago who hadn't realised that their descendants would want to drive 4x4s and BMWs along them. The wife nearly had kittens as we followed TomTom to the main car park, through what I can only describe as pavements - they were NOT roads. I may write to TomTom and insist they add road widths. Parked up and decided to walk the rest of the way to find the flat, which thankfully was just off the main piazza.

After chatting to the very friendly landlord, who explained where we could park (funnily enough there were no spaces) we realised we'd have to negotiate the streets once more. To cut a long story short we got the car close enough to unpack and found somewhere to park for the night.

Finally we ventured out to forage for milk, bread and something to eat. Settling for a couple of slices of pizza and a cup of tea in our new home. Both too tired to do anything more adventurous.

A domani.

Switzerland

Long day today. Started out at 0800ish after a hearty breakfast of chocolate croissant and coffee. Attempted to refuel at an automated pump near the hotel and failed miserably. No matter. Hit the motorway and headed east from Metz straight into rather thick fog. Visibility down to 100m or so. Perhaps this isn't going to be a straightward journey after all! Luckily it burnt off as we drove east, refueling successfully soon after the fog cleared.

The quiet drive soon ended as soon as we hit the German border. After the quiet of the French motorways we were faced with the onslaught of Germans and Swiss driving past at mach 4. Welcome to the autobahn. Even TomTom gave up showing the maximum speed on the A5. Once at Basel and through the traffic jam at the Swiss border (about 50 cars).

Negotiated our way through Basel (wifey commenting that the town's a bit like a Swiss version of Birmingham and spaghetti junction - I'm sure it's very nice). Once away from the towns we could appreciate the joy of the Swiss landscape until we get near to Zurich and then it all goes horribly wrong. We take the wrong turn and end up going north around Zurich - turned around and headed south looking for the ring road around the south. This, it appears, isn't complete as I and the camper in-front nearly career through the bollards into the tunnel we obviously both want but can't have, and forced onto a road neither of us know. Some frantic mapping reading by the wife and swearing at TomTom "turn right", "no", "turn right in 300 meters", "NO! Where the hell are we?", "turn around when possible","Just f**k off!". Now we're on a quiet Swiss back road and no idea where we are. It's time to do what I hate doing - trust TomTom. We punch in our new destination, Gotthard, and stare at the little screen, slavishly doing it's bidding. All credit to TomTom, after some very scenic driving, it got us back onto the motorway and somewhere on a map.

Some may wonder why I don't just trust the technology. TomTom is a fantastic device and I wouldn't go anywhere without it. However, I refuse to abdicate all responsibility to it. I want to know where I am and where I'm going - if I get lost I want to know I did it all on my own.

The drive through the rest of Switzerland was truly stunning, perhaps we will return for our last week to appreciate the mountains fully. Perhaps I'll even get to climb one ... well, perhaps, one of the smaller ones. Finally made the St Gotthard Tunnel, expecting long queues, only to find we flew through, much to wifey's relief - she's not a fan of tunnels. The thought of 17km under ground with Italian drivers and having read about the very tragic accident a few years ago, even I was relieved to get to the other side. Swapped driving with wifey at the Gotthard services headed into Italy. The drive initially being very easy but soon descended into wholesale carnage as we hit the border. After 7 hours in a car the final drive to Milan started taking its toll on both of us. Tempers started to fray, thankfully we found our hotel before TomTom was used as a blunt weapon.

Ended the day with a Snack noodle and Spicy Tomato Pasta - well it was Italy, dont-cha-know, and endorsed by Ainsley Harriett. Posh pot noodle by anyone else's definition.

France

Bonjour. Travelled across France in very quick time, making Metz in just over 5 hours with two stops. Why can't the motorways in the UK be that quiet? Ok, it was Easter Sunday and it cost us €32 for the privilege, but that's not the point.

Our accommodation is basic but very good - the shower nearly removing several layers of skin. Decided against eating in the hotel restaurant and had a Pot Noodle, our remaining tuna sandwiches and a beer for dinner - which always tastes better this side of the Channel? Probably due having been up since six and travelled 500 km. I wonder if Pot Noodle is illegal in France - I'll destroy the evidence just in case. I've no idea what they'll make of Snack Noodles! I'll save those for Italy.. wait..damn. Probably best eat them on the move through Switzerland. Wifey says that Snack noodle are a higher level of noodle cuisine as they contain a sachet of vegetables. I'm not convinced.

Orange seem to have lots of Wifi in the area, alas none of it free. No one else seems to be using it either so can't entertain myself in other more nefarious ways. Talking of which, kismet seems to work very well on a Macbook Air. Would use the 3G dongle but there doesn't appear to be any coverage (only 2G and no 3 network - so there's a high risk the cost will bankrupt me).

Packing madness

Well, it's Good Friday and only one day to go. We've nearly packed everything, and by the size of our cases, I think we really have packed everything!

All our routes and stop-overs are planned. Start Sunday morning on the Eurotunnel arriving Calais at 12.00. First night stop at Metz about 5ish. Next day the big push through France, Switzerland and into Italy. Planning our route through Switzerland proved interesting with a choice of going directly south through the St Gotthard tunnel and face rather large queues (it is Easter weekend after all), or travel further east past Zurich (and around what looks like a nice bypass through the Uetliberg Tunnel on the N4/N20) and then down through the St Bernardino tunnel). Finally decided on the route via Zurich. Hopefully arriving Monday evening in Milan after approx 7-8 hours driving. Tuesday should be a fairly leisurely drive south-east to Bologna then south towards Rome and Sutri.

If you're interested in route planning there are a number of interesting sites that can assist:

1. maps.google.co.uk. Very flexible system, allowing you to change your route by dragging the route around on the interactive map. The only downside are the maps aren't accurate. The bypass around Zurich does not exist yet (even though the copyright says 2009) and Google places our hotel in Milan in the wrong place even though it has the correct address. The printed route is very impressive, allowing you to add in maps of junctions and screenshots of streetview where available.
2. www.routes.tomtom.com. A beta system which would be very good if you could alter the route once planned. All the mapping is their own which makes for some very accurate routes.
3. www.viamichelin.co.uk. Another good system allowing some route alterations, but the printed routes are a little confusing to say the least. The wife hated it. However, the list includes an estimate of tolls and fuel costs.
4. www.theaa.com/route-planner/index.jsp. A system based around Google Maps but with less flexibility. However UK routes look very comprehensive.
5. www.multimap.co.uk. This is another good planner with mapping from Microsoft Virtual Earth. You can add multple 'via's to alter your route, but I wasn't keen on the routes printed out.

Out of all the planners I found Google the most flexible. Your mileage may vary (... sorry couldn't help it!).

Welcome

Welcome! This is my first attempt at keeping a blog and I've no idea how I'll get on.

Only seven days to go before we depart on our Italian adventure. I just need to finalise our driving route through France, Switzerland and Italy, although we've booked our overnight stops; Metz and Milan. Both of us are looking forward to the drive - all 1700km of it!

Everything is paid for so we now just have to pack... never my favourite pastime. Being a bloke I'm all for packing several pairs of pants, a tee shirt and a pair of jeans. Wifey wasn't terrible impressed by this so I'll probably have to put more thought into this, perhaps an extra pair of jeans. However, I have sorted out all the technology we'll be taking with us: laptop, 3G dongle, DSLR, iPod touch, USB storage, DVDs, chargers, mobile phones etc. Lets hope we have 3G coverage where we're staying?